It Is Not That Cold!!!

This Vid Makes Me Feel Lucky. Cold water? No Problem.

What A Zoo.

WTF!!!!!!!!!

The 40 hr work week and the dad in me keeps my nose to the grindstone. BUT when I see it's good and I get a second to check the cams the first thing that comes to my mind is

 "how fast can i get there".

Hard Winter.

Dawn Patrol

This year has been colder than most years, but the surf has been better than most winters as well. The east winds pushing off shore and crunchy sand under your feet make the dawn patrols harder and harder. 28 degrees on the truck's thermometer while putting on the wetty, with the heater pumping and some metal on the ipod trying to get the full kick off the coffee before the first duck dive. Welcome to the northwest. It is a re-invite. I have been in these waters all my life and I don't care who the hell you are, you never get immune these ice cold mornings.

Pie

The dream? A piece of the pie. These super cold sessions and blown all to hell days make me think of far off places. A little piece somewhere warm, on a beach. Build a little shack. Surf some, sleep some. Just be human. Nap in the hammock with the wife. Catch some fish for lunch. Watch the kid play in the sand

.................................The Dream.

History That Hurts.

Sweet Pain

Usually when I look at the cams and see this I cringe. My arms and shoulders are so burnt i don't think i could do another session for a day or so.

OH OH OCTOBER!!

Always the most fun month of the year. Now November is here and the road trips have already begun. Off to the straights and more northern destinations. Camping, Driving and Surfing with far away friends that are always glad to see you made the journey to surf with them.