For Show Or Go?

It seems as though a "new" trend has snuck up on us once again. I keep seeing all these new boards from new art style shaper's showing up on the the beaches. I know they cost a lot and they sure look nice but the one thing I don't get is all the art on them.  The boards cost a ton as it is and they take forever to get. Then you pay a ton more to put Art on it? The boards are hand shaped and flawless. They look like something that should be in a art show down town. Not something that is going to be shoved in the back of my truck with three or four other boards, dog, camping gear, spare tire, skate board, ect. Then put the thing in the water and watch every one put the bulls eye on it.

 I bought this Bing because I wanted a Bonzer set up, and I hate to pack it around. When I put the first scratch in it I was pissed. When I ordered the board I asked if I could just get it in all white and they said it would take two months. So now I have this board that every time it gets a scratch in it I get pissed. But that's OK. Cause when it's going  down the line I don't give a crap what it looks like. The art is in the shape, fin set up, fin design. No drawings.

 

The way it should be.

Every time I see this video it gives me goose bumps.

The Hope Is?

Seeing this guy throw down and get his surf on really made a impression on me. It's not "sit buy the pool" mentality I am looking for in a guy I want to trust with the free world. It is the guy who knows the value of a pair of board shorts and a good beach break that I can get behind. Yeah, that and a ton of new policy. I have always been a Lefty, not a Liberal. Just a Lefty; lets make that clear. Seeing my favorite hunting spots cut down year after year when I was a kid made me a Lefty. Well that and Reganomics. We almost all went hungry on the Oregon coast during that guys stint in office. Don't get me wrong, politician's scare the hell out of me. It seems that you never find out the truth about a guy until they're in office. Well we shall see how it goes.

Damn Little Old Lady

Growing up playing and working on my dads fishing boat we saw lots of sharks. We did a lot of free diving for abalone as well, and saw sharks. 

Surfing, never see sharks. 

I haven't had that "what the hell was that" feeling in quite some time.  

Saturday. Dressed in my wetty heading for a great session see a little old lady coming off the beach with a few shells in hand. 

Me- "How you doing this morning?"

Little ol Lady- "Oh fine, beautiful day"

Me-" Yep should be a nice week"

Little ol Lady-" You know I saw a big shark yesterday"

Me-"What- where?"

Little ol Lady-"Oh just down the beach there. It washed up and we were trying to get it back in the water."  

Me-"So did it swim off ?"

Little ol lady-"Yep it swam off. I think it will live"

Me-"OK well you have a nice day"

That shark could have been a hundred miles away and I don't think I would have stopped looking for it!

Big Wind Big Waves Oh My

The time is coming. The search for green wedges and smooth sliding will soon consume us all.