Wednesday, December 17, 2008
The dream? A piece of the pie. These super cold sessions and blown all to hell days make me think of far off places. A little piece somewhere warm, on a beach. Build a little shack. Surf some, sleep some. Just be human. Nap in the hammock with the wife. Catch some fish for lunch. Watch the kid play in the sand
Sunday, November 16, 2008
Sunday, November 9, 2008
Always the most fun month of the year. Now November is here and the road trips have already begun. Off to the straights and more northern destinations. Camping, Driving and Surfing with far away friends that are always glad to see you made the journey to surf with them.
Friday, November 7, 2008
Thursday, October 23, 2008
It's that time of year again. It happens about twice a year every year. For people who surf every season, all season, Its kind of funny and a pain in the ass. Mid spring all the people who snow board and only snow board in the winter, show back up on the beaches looking all hard core and shooting dirty looks at ya, pissed you made the wave they were trying to cut you off on. Following you around when they see you heading for a new peak. "lots of fun". But at least these guys can surf. They know how to paddle ,duck dive and get the hell out of the way when things get big.
Then there is the crew that shows up at the end of summer. They keep on hearing about how good it is getting from there friends. They surf maybe a month a year, and all they have down is the stank eye. Hanging out way on the inside, not looking at what any one else doing. Getting pissed off cause they can't catch a wave. I never really hear any yelling between surfers until these guy's show up. I love surfing the waves this time of year but I hate dealing with these guys, and I hate seeing my friends having to deal with these guys.
It's kind of like oil and vinegar.
You have the smooth aged graceful surfers mixed with the sour made yesterday hacks.
Well winter is upon us and the lineup will empty soon enough.
Saturday, October 18, 2008
Friday, October 3, 2008
My friend sent this picture to me from a wednesday dive trip at haystack. It was washed up on the beach when they came in from there dive. Trying to help it live they helped it back into the water. They did not think it would make it. On the same day another shark was found on a different beach that washed up.
Here is what the AP network said.
Monday, September 22, 2008
It seems as though a "new" trend has snuck up on us once again. I keep seeing all these new boards from new art style shaper's showing up on the the beaches. I know they cost a lot and they sure look nice but the one thing I don't get is all the art on them. The boards cost a ton as it is and they take forever to get. Then you pay a ton more to put Art on it? The boards are hand shaped and flawless. They look like something that should be in a art show down town. Not something that is going to be shoved in the back of my truck with three or four other boards, dog, camping gear, spare tire, skate board, ect. Then put the thing in the water and watch every one put the bulls eye on it.
I bought this Bing because I wanted a Bonzer set up, and I hate to pack it around. When I put the first scratch in it I was pissed. When I ordered the board I asked if I could just get it in all white and they said it would take two months. So now I have this board that every time it gets a scratch in it I get pissed. But that's OK. Cause when it's going down the line I don't give a crap what it looks like. The art is in the shape, fin set up, fin design. No drawings.
Saturday, September 20, 2008
Thursday, September 18, 2008
Seeing this guy throw down and get his surf on really made a impression on me. It's not "sit buy the pool" mentality I am looking for in a guy I want to trust with the free world. It is the guy who knows the value of a pair of board shorts and a good beach break that I can get behind. Yeah, that and a ton of new policy. I have always been a Lefty, not a Liberal. Just a Lefty; lets make that clear. Seeing my favorite hunting spots cut down year after year when I was a kid made me a Lefty. Well that and Reganomics. We almost all went hungry on the Oregon coast during that guys stint in office. Don't get me wrong, politician's scare the hell out of me. It seems that you never find out the truth about a guy until they're in office. Well we shall see how it goes.
Friday, September 5, 2008
Growing up playing and working on my dads fishing boat we saw lots of sharks. We did a lot of free diving for abalone as well, and saw sharks.
Surfing, never see sharks.
I haven't had that "what the hell was that" feeling in quite some time.
Saturday. Dressed in my wetty heading for a great session see a little old lady coming off the beach with a few shells in hand.
Me- "How you doing this morning?"
Little ol Lady- "Oh fine, beautiful day"
Me-" Yep should be a nice week"
Little ol Lady-" You know I saw a big shark yesterday"
Little ol Lady-"Oh just down the beach there. It washed up and we were trying to get it back in the water."
Me-"So did it swim off ?"
Little ol lady-"Yep it swam off. I think it will live"
Me-"OK well you have a nice day"
That shark could have been a hundred miles away and I don't think I would have stopped looking for it!